Philes' Forum by Vic Lucariello

(This month we have the conclusion of Warren Brown's saga of the replacement of his M42 engine Profile Gasket. Before we begin, however, I would like to correct an error from the beginning article of this series.

In introducing Warren's article, I stated that the M42 engine is the DOHC, 1.8 Liter unit that is found in the E30 318is, E36 318, and Z3 models. Actually, the 4-cylinder Z3s are equipped with the 1.9 Liter M44 motor, which is an enlarged version of the M42 unit. Moreover, as pointed out by Bimmerphile Alexei Tsekoun, 1996 and later cars should be equipped with the M44 as well. Thanks, Alex!

Now we return to Warren's narrative. As before, my comments appear parenthetically.

1. Clean the mating surfaces. [If the coolant passage opening in the lower timing cover/ water pump housing is corroded/roded, you will have to restore the sealing surface with two-part epoxy and a file. Ensure that metal filings don't find their way into the engine!]
2. Install the head gasket.
3. Install the Profile Gasket using a silicone seal at the butt joint of the 2 gaskets. [ie: the joint of the head and profile gaskets.]
4. With the aid of a helper to hold the chain and chain guides, reinstall the head. Make sure the head is fully seated on the guide pins. [and, try not to wiggle the head around while you are trying to engage the guide pins in the block. The profile gasket/head gasket junction can be disturbed if you do this. Also, remember that the cams are still held in place by the locating tool.]
5. Loosely install the timing chain sprockets with the arrows up. Pull the chain tight so the slack is on the tensioner side.
6. Re-set the timing chain tensioner by first tapping the base on a hard surface and getting it to extend. Next compress the tensioner in a vise till it latches at an overall length of 2.67". Many folks recommend just plain replacing this with a new part that comes pre-compressed. New parts have been updated overthe original design, some have managed to break the part in process of compressing it, others claim they don't last long after they have been re-set. [Replace the tensioner.]
7. Install the tensioner and release by exercising the chain guide.
8. Tighten the timing chain sprocket bolts.
9. Remove the cam tool and the flywheel locking pin.
10. Install the socket head bolt that holds the drivers side timing chain guide.
11. Install the upper timing chain guide.
12. Tighten the [NEW] head bolts working from the center out. Tighten all to 30 to 35 ft.-lbs. Then tighten each one 90 degrees then tighten each one another 90 degrees. [If you have never used torque-to-yield bolts before, be prepared to experience the sickening feeling of the bolts yielding on the second 90 degree tightening.]
13. Install the upper front timing chain cover. The challenge here is to get the top surface of the front timing chain cover flush with the top surface of the head. In the BMW E36 repair microfiche, they recommend installing the valve cover at this stage. When I did mine, I did not know about BMWs recommendation. I'm concerned that with the rubber gaskets installed, the valve cover would not exert enough force to align the top surfaces.
14. Install the water pump pulley.
15. Install the fan clutch. Left-handed threads.
16. Install the thermostat in its original position along with the thermostat housing.
17. Reattach the trigger contact to the upper front timing chain cover.
18. Dress the trigger contact wires around the front of the engine, attach bracket that holds the wires.
19. Reconnect the 2 trigger contact plugs to the engine electronics box.
20. Install the valve cover gaskets and valve cover.
21. Install the plugs. [New ones while you're at it, and a new Oxygen Sensor to go along with them if your sensor is original.]
22. Install the tray under the plug wires, plug wires and reconnect the coils.
23. Install the plug wire heat shield.
24. Reattach the heater hose to the head. [Now's the time to identify and replace any coolant hoses that are old or marginal.]
25. Reconnect both temperature sensors.
26. Install the lower intake manifold gasket to the head followed by the lower intake manifold.
27. Reinstall the bracket that supports the engine electronics box and the metal fuel lines.
28. Install fuel line hoses with clamps. [Now's the time to replace your underhood fuel hoses.]
29. Install the front lower intake manifold support.
30. Reconnect the brake vacuum line to the brake booster.
31. Reconnect the fuel injector cable to the engine electronics box.
32. Reinstall the upper manifold with gasket to the lower manifold. Don't forget the bracket that supports the rear of the upper manifold.
33. Reattach the hose from the idle stabilizer to the rear of the upper intake manifold.
34. Install the throttle body heater and hoses.
35. Install the throttle body, don't forget to reconnect the vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.
36. Reconnect the hose from fuel vapor canister to the throttle body.
37. Reattach the oil breather hose to the base of the throttle body and tighten the happy-faced bracket.
38. Reattach the accelerator and cruise control cables.
39. Reattach the throttle position switch.
40. Reattach the intake boot to the A.F. meter and throttle body.
41. Reattach the radiator hoses.
42. Reattach the exhaust system.
43. Fill the radiator with at least water 'till your sure you have no water leaks.
44. [Be prepared for a bit of timing chain noise on restarting of the engine. Thoroughly check for coolant, water and fuel leaks before and after your test drive. There! Aren't you glad you did the job yourself?!]

Thanks again to Warren for taking the time to write about his repair project for our benefit!!

Anyone wishing to contribute to Philes' Forum should contact me via the info on the masthead. I'm interested in tech tips, repair /maintenance questions and/or tips, dealer horror stories, product evaluations, etc. Please call before 8 PM, and if you leave a message, PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR WORK PHONE NUMBER. Also, please be patient, I try to return every phone call, but it sometimes takes awhile. The best way to contact me is via e-mail.

Copyright 1998 - V. M. Lucariello, PE