Last month, when addressing coolant vs. plain water, I stated that in my M3 I use a 30/70 mixture of distilled water and coolant. MISTAKE! I meant to say 70/30 mix!!

With the driver school season about to begin [the 26 March Lime Rock school is already sold out as I compose this in mid-February], it's time for me to get on my soapbox for a bit before addressing the usual business of Philes' Forum. Incidentally, the '99 season marks the twenty-fifth anniversary of N J Chapter driver schools at Lime Rock!!

A driver school can stress your Bimmer more than everyday driving. Don't worry, they are designed for it. We have had many folks use their daily driver at driver schools for years with no apparent ill effects. However, even fine machines need proper maintenance and preparation for strenuous service. This is why we require all driver school vehicles to undergo a thorough inspection within the 4 weeks prior to each event.

The inspection should be an up-on-jackstands, wheels-off affair performed by a qualified individual who is familiar with the make and model being inspected. [You are not required to drive a Bimmer at a N J Chapter driver school] We permit you to perform your own inspection, have a friend do it, or hire a professional. We don't care who does the inspection, just that is in fact done, done properly, and properly documented.

Driver school registrants receive a 'Pre-Event Safety Inspection Report Form' [AKA: our infamous 'Tech Form'] which can serve as a checklist for performing the inspection. {I think the Tech Form is a good basic preventative maintenance checklist as well, so if any of you non-driver schoolers wishes to receive a copy [Microsoft Word File, Fax, regular mail, etc.] just let me know.} The intent of the form is to document the inspection which you and/or your designee performs. The form contains some legalese, courtesy of Bimmerphile Attorney Cathy LaMarca Gibson, which, loosely translated, states that the school participant [YOU] is certifying that the vehicle has in fact been inspected per the requirements of the Tech Form. You should also note that the form requires the participant to make this certification regardless of who actually does the inspection. It is permissible for a hired inspector to also sign the form, but the signature that we require is the participant's.

Previous attendees of NJ schools will know that we do what is called 'Tech' as part of the at-event registration process. We closely examine your tech form, check that your car VIN matches your tech form, check that your helmet has a Snell '90 or newer identification sticker, ensure that you don't have aftermarket window tinting, and check that your seatbelts are the same for driver and front passenger. We also ensure that the participant's signature[s] appear where required on the tech form. In addition, some cars receive a 'spot-check' wherein we take a quick look under the hood and under the car, a quick look at the tires, and give the steering wheel and brake pedal a quick wiggle and push, respectively. We also may eyeball your brake fluid to see if it appears to be reasonably fresh.

Our so-called 'Tech', which takes less than 5 minutes [car remains on the ground], is not intended to and cannot possibly substitute for the participant's pre-event inspection. I've been working on cars for, uh, many years and on Bimmers for maybe 20, and it would take me at least an hour to do a proper tech inspection and brake fluid change. This under the ideal conditions of my shop. With maybe 100 cars coming to a school, it would be impossible for us to perform the required inspection at the event, even if we had the shop facilities to do so.

The point I am belaboring here is that the participant must assume the responsibility for bringing a safe, previously inspected car to a driver school. If we see you filling out your tech form in the tech line, it is hard for us to believe you are taking this responsibility seriously.

OK, the soapbox is put away for a while, we now return to your regularly scheduled program.................

Bimmerphile Fred Ransom has a '74 2002 tii which has been sitting in his garage for six years. Fred says the '02 was parked there with the intention of some work being done, but 'One thing led to another, and I am ready to begin anew........' My response to Fred follows [except for the stuff re the injection pump, this pretty much applies to any fuel-injected car]:

Here are a few of the things you will need to check in returning the tii to service:

Ensure that foreign matter: rodents, nests, etc. are removed from intake, engine and exhaust.
Remove spark plugs, put a tablespoon to penetrating oil into each cylinder and attempt to gently turn the engine over in normal rotation via a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft pulley nut. If it won't budge, try reverse-forward directions but don't force it. If NG, put in some more penetrating oil and let sit for a few days and try again. If still NG [by now we can say NFG], disconnect the injection pump timing belt and determine if the engine and/or pump are stuck.
After engine and pump turn by hand, reconnect/retime the pump timing belt, change engine oil and filter, and introduce the new oil via an air-pressurized oiler so that the engine is pre-oiled prior to starting. While pre-oiling, rotate engine in normal direction as in #2.
New points and plugs.
Fresh fuel in tank. [Drain old] New fuel filter. Fresh coolant. New battery. Do not try to jump start with old, dead battery in place.
Install oil pressure test gauge and crank engine with starter [fuel pump fuse removed to establish oil pressure and ensure that oil pump and its relief valve are functioning.
Replace the fuel pump fuse and turn ignition on to verify that the fuel pump runs and there are no fuel leaks.
Start engine, check for leaks, retime, etc. Expect injector and/or injection pump problems.
Clutch disc will likely be stuck to pressure plate or flywheel due to rust. Good luck freeing up. [this itself could be a whole column]
Prior to driving, flush/replace brake fluid, probably rebuild calipers, probably replace wheel cylinders, and clutch slave cylinder. Ensure parking brake works. Hopefully, the car didn't sit for six years with the parking brake on!
This should at least get you started. The whole car will have to be gone over very carefully to look for chewed wiring, deteriorated mounts, stiff u-joints, etc. The tires may be dry-rotted as well.

Whew! I never did hear how Fred made out with this resurrection, but hey, Easter is around the corner!

Anyone wishing to contribute to Philes' Forum should contact me via the info on the masthead. I'm interested in tech tips, repair /maintenance questions and/or tips, dealer horror stories, product evaluations, etc. Please call before 8 PM, and if you leave a message, PLEASE INCLUDE A DAYTIME PHONE NUMBER. Also, please be patient, I try to return every phone call, but it sometimes takes awhile. If you don't hear back from me within a few days, please call again. The best way to contact me is via e-mail.

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