Hi,
I'm finally taking the plunge and looking to change my own winter wheels, what would be a good Hydratic jack and Torque wrench at a good price? Where should I buy these items?
Thanks,
Dave
Hydraulic jack and torque wrench
For jacks, you can go aluminum, but if you plan on leaving it in the garage, i would go with a nice heavy steel one. I just picked one up for my dad at Harbor Freight for about $70. its black and yellow in color and cut low to get under lower riding cars. I think it was 3 ton. They have torque wrenches there too, but I think you would be better off with the Kobalt brand one they sell at lowes, get 1/2" and dont forget an extension and 17mm socket. I would also get a breaker bar for removing the lugs, as u really shouldnt use the torque wrench for breaking lugs free.
Jeff Burgess
Member # 190685
1989 BMW M3
2001 BMW M3 vert
1990 Mustang Lx 5.0 vert - FOR SALE
2005 Nissan Xterra on 33's - FOR SALE
Member # 190685
1989 BMW M3
2001 BMW M3 vert
1990 Mustang Lx 5.0 vert - FOR SALE
2005 Nissan Xterra on 33's - FOR SALE
To follow up on Jeff's post....You also don't want to use a socket wrench to break the lugs free either. I broke my 30 year old Craftsman 1/2" socket wrench over the weekend when I had to add a 2 foot piece of pipe to break two lugs free. The impact driver wouldn't budge them. Good thing I didn't have to change a flat on the road!
Costco also had a decent steel floor jack the last time I checked, and I believe they still offer an exchange/replacement warranty for items purchased from there. It always seems to be a bit of acrap-shoot with the cheaper jacks. Either they stop working within a few months (aluminum floor jack from costco, steel from pep boys) or last seemingly forever (steel floor jack from costco, aluminum from harbor freight).
Craftsman torque wrenches are also pretty cheap these days - though I'm not sure that's a good thing.
Chris
Craftsman torque wrenches are also pretty cheap these days - though I'm not sure that's a good thing.
Chris
1996 318ti - Street
1989 325is - Track
1988 M3 - Garage
2005 Expedition - Tow
Walmart?!?
I have the same aluminium jack from Harbour Freight that is quite popular at the track and it does a great job. It's in NJ with my track car though. For swapping wheels in the garage here in KC, I picked up a 2 ton steel jack for just $20 at Walmart. It does the job just fine and is low enough to roll under my 335i sport. Surprisingly they also had a $25 torque wrench which is comparable to the one I bought on Amazon for about twice as much. Not sure how long these will last but for light use, I'm sure they will be adequate.
So you admit you wanted to break the wrench? Any extension added to a wrench and you're risking breaking it. Get a proper breaker bar. They're designed to take the extra stress. Bimmertools has a pretty awesome ratcheting bar.Al323i wrote:...I broke my 30 year old Craftsman 1/2" socket wrench ....I had to add a 2 foot piece of pipe to break two lugs free.
Harbor Freight (aka Ho-Chi-Minh Fake) jacks are OTC knock offs. Quality control is spotty. Some fail early, some take years of abuse. Like my 1.5T that I've had for 7 years now. It's still kicking but it's hard for me to recommend to anyone.
Torque wrenches HD/Lowes/Craftsman specials are ok. Better tools provide better durability and repeatability (precision). Add salt to taste.
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2017 BMW M2
2017 BMW M2
OK, my reco. First Dave, changing your own wheels is not really taking the plunge, but a good start onto the slippery slope. If you get a jack, also get jack stands. Never use only a jack (especially the cheap ones some have suggested) to support your car. Raise the car with the jack and then place a jack stand under a frame member. This is all very easy and fast.
To deal with the lug bolts/nuts...before raising the car, loosen the lugs with a 1/2" breaker bar. Then, raise the car and remove the lug bolts using the same breaker bar or ratchet. If they are as tight as AL323i says, inspect the lug bolts for stretching due to over tightening. I have had this issue on several cars and usually just replace all lugs with new.
After placing the new wheel, apply some never-seize to the threads of the lug and reinstall. Tighten snug using ratchet/breaker bar and lower that side of car. Torque lugs to spec and you have just finished a simple job at a much higher standard than you'd get at a corner garage. Congratulations!
As for sources for the tools...check out our great friend and supplier Ken at Bimmertools. Also look to sears for their constant sales. You can get a nice jack packaged with stands, some ratchet/socket sets and a torque wrench all for a very small investment. Once you start to accumulate tools, you'll find yourself doing other repairs/maintenance until you need more tools - the slippery slope!
HTH, Bob
To deal with the lug bolts/nuts...before raising the car, loosen the lugs with a 1/2" breaker bar. Then, raise the car and remove the lug bolts using the same breaker bar or ratchet. If they are as tight as AL323i says, inspect the lug bolts for stretching due to over tightening. I have had this issue on several cars and usually just replace all lugs with new.
After placing the new wheel, apply some never-seize to the threads of the lug and reinstall. Tighten snug using ratchet/breaker bar and lower that side of car. Torque lugs to spec and you have just finished a simple job at a much higher standard than you'd get at a corner garage. Congratulations!
As for sources for the tools...check out our great friend and supplier Ken at Bimmertools. Also look to sears for their constant sales. You can get a nice jack packaged with stands, some ratchet/socket sets and a torque wrench all for a very small investment. Once you start to accumulate tools, you'll find yourself doing other repairs/maintenance until you need more tools - the slippery slope!
HTH, Bob
'11 335i Convertible - Street
'02 325Ci - Street
'97 M3 Coupe - Street
'17 340i - Wife's ride
No automatics!
'02 325Ci - Street
'97 M3 Coupe - Street
'17 340i - Wife's ride
No automatics!
Sorry, thought you didn't carry any more. Can you get me a quote? You can always let Colin know if can't get me. If price is cool I can get it from you at lighting if you're there next month or can meet up with Colin.alken wrote:Hi guys! Remember me?
(I don't list the OTC jack anymore, but I can get it. Price fluctuates too much for me to keep it listed. I got bit too many time!)
Thanks.
Agreed, except for the anti-seize. Factory torque spec is for a dry fit. If you use it and apply a lubricant (like anti-seize) to the wheel nuts, you will be over-tightening your bolts when you apply torque (causing said stretch).
Colin is converting to the ways of the Jawa. Utinni!
Colin is converting to the ways of the Jawa. Utinni!
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2017 BMW M2
2017 BMW M2
Agree about the anti-seize. But I do put some on the flat surfaces of the inside of the wheel where it touches the brake rotor especially around the centric lip. I also put some on the inside of the brake rotors years ago where it touches the flange. When I went to change brakes this time, the rotor fell right off, no pounding with a sledge, swearing or spilling blood.
-Keith
'11 335D & '17 340GT
'11 335D & '17 340GT
+1kbsilver wrote:Agree about the anti-seize. But I do put some on the flat surfaces of the inside of the wheel where it touches the brake rotor especially around the centric lip. I also put some on the inside of the brake rotors years ago where it touches the flange. When I went to change brakes this time, the rotor fell right off, no pounding with a sledge, swearing or spilling blood.
Exactly where I put it. Best practice, just put a few light dabs in between the bolt holes (and well clear of them). Coating the centric lip helps loads.
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2017 BMW M2
2017 BMW M2